Seed Germination is NOT Rocket-Science.

starting seeds by MPhemisterFor successful seed germination, you will need to know a smidge about light, heat, soil, and water. We've got that here. Oh, and you'll need viable seed. For that, check out our review of top seed sources.

You'll also need some basic stability to your schedule. If you travel 3 days out of 5, you (and your germinating seeds) need a back-up plan. My favorites are spouses, and kids who need a science project to do.

 

Light

It's worth investing in a good strong light source that can be lowered close to your germinating seed; this keeps them from getting leggyseedlings too leggy . The seedlings in this image are too leggy. This is your most critical issue when starting seeds indoors. A basic timer from a hardware store is cheap, easy to come-by, and incredibly useful in general. Plug into it some sort of grow light: this is your best investment for successful seed germination.

Wait! Aren't the seeds underground and therefore don't need light??

True. You'll be pushing most seeds in 2-3 times deeper than the seed is wide, so no, the light won't get there right away, but these little guys go fast once they go, so you'll need the light soon. Any minute now.

Heat

Seeds germination usually happens in warmer soils than the actual plants grow in, generally over 65 degrees Fahrenheit for garden vegetables*. A lot of grains and flowers will germinate in cooler weather, and a couple of picky ones (eggplant!) need it quite warm.

(*the great exception: seed germination for lettuce almost always requires some chill. In the hot summer, I germinate my lettuce seeds in the fridge. Seriously.)

lower the light source for seedlingsWait, warmer (or colder) where? The soil, that tiny bit of soil the seeds are in. Outside, this means heat from the sun collecting in the top inch of dirt, but when you are starting seed indoors, a heat mat can help, especially if the house is old and drafty (mine!) and especially if you are germinating peppers or other heat loving vegetable seeds.

I love my seedling heat mats! But be careful to only leave the mat plugged in for two weeks, maximum, or once everybody is up.

In this picture, one crop is up but the neighbors aren't. The heat mat was left on but the light source was not lowered, thus these seedings became the 'too leggy' cautionary tale you just saw above.

The seedlings will need to be tough enough to transplant in short order. This is vastly more important than the height gains they may make with the heat mat on.

Soil

You can read more about wilt point and field capacity and other such soil fun in our Garden Soil section, but all you really need right now is to know that:

Yes, you can start that seed in a pot of soil dug directly from your garden, and

No, I don't think that's a good idea.

Both a germinating seed and a young seedling need moisture and oxygen in just the right slow steady doses. While nature is abundant enough to go for the 100 to 1 odds, you are looking for a little more predictability here. Go for seed starting soil or a light potting soil. Even topsoil is heavier than you want right now.

Seed starting soil recipes

Have some soil around already? Want to make your own mix? Try these mixes:

Seed Starting Soil from Potting Soil
2 parts your potting soil
1 part vermiculite or small pine bark nuggets

Seed Starting Soil from your Compost Heap
4 parts good compost, sifted to remove leaves and sticks (smell it- it should smell good. Earthy. Sour or acrid is not ready yet.)
1 part either peat moss (if you are in an acid soil area [east coast USA])
OR 1 part coconut coir (if you are not [the Midwest and Plains states])
1 part coarse sand
1 part perlite
2 parts vermiculite

NOTE: Best Practices include sterilizing that compost in a low heat oven on cookie sheets if you have any doubts about it. I rarely do this, but some years it's necessary.

To do this, pick a warm day, open the windows, spread the soil on a metal cookie sheet or casserole dish (not real thick: no higher than fat brownies,) and bake in your oven at 175 or 180 (not over 200) Farenheit for 30 minutes.

Reminder: Let it cool before using it!

 

Water

Water is critical. Most seeds are fairly dry and need to rehydrate to get the metabolic processes going. For fat seeds in tough hulls seed starting_condensation on plastic lid(morning glories, squash), I often soak them on a plate of water overnight before planting. Plate not bowl! They have to be able to breathe still.

The soil recipes above help create the steady moisture and steady oxygen needed by germinating seed.

Once they start growing, when you water try to mist your seedlings, not drown them. See the water droplets on the lid of the plastic cover? That's why the lid is propped open to let a little air circulation in before things mold. (These are peas and beans coming in here, but you'd normally direct sow those outside. I was testing seed viability after finding an old packet in the back of a drawer.)

Wait, mold? Yes, too much water will let mold grow IF mold spores are present. You may be able to just scrape the mold off the soil and keep going, but the younger the sprout, the more likely you are looking at trouble. Think about starting over.

Mold problem solving: Did you use a homemade soil mix? Did you sterilize the soil first?


Up to the top of this Seed Catalogs Review
Forward to the Planting Guide
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